Right now, record numbers of travellers are flocking to Sri Lanka. Here’s how to swerve the crowds and find the best off-beat locations the island has to offer.
Sri Lanka has seen some challenging times since the turn of the century, from the devastating impact of the 2004 tsunami, to the 2019 terrorist bombings which took place on Easter Sunday. The covid-19 pandemic brought global travel to a halt – causing a 73.5% decline in tourism in Sri Lanka alone – and in 2022, an economic collapse led to shortages of fuel, food and essential medical supplies, and saw frequent power blackouts across the island. With tourism identified as the third largest and fastest growing source of foreign currency in 2018, its depletion had troubling implications for an already struggling economy.
Fast forward to 2024, and things are looking up for the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, and it’s certainly about time. In January, a Sri Lankan minister announced the tourism sector saw a 122% growth compared to the previous year. It welcomed approximately 1.48 million tourists in 2023, which was almost double that of 2022. Now ranked the 5th fastest growing travel destination in the world, it is set for greater and more sustained tourism in 2024. In June alone, Sri Lanka welcomed a record number of 113,470 tourists. Sunshine and downpours do indeed coexist on this island of microclimates.
It is plain to see why Sri Lanka is so appealing to travellers. A budget beauty with diverse and abundant landscapes, from the rich cultural and spiritual history of the ancient cities, to the emerald peaks and tea plantations of the hill country, and the tropical paradise on the south coast.
The downside is that the most popular locations and attractions on the island nation can quickly become overcrowded, especially during peak season. From January through to April, south coast towns like Mirrisa and Weligama are often overrun with surf newbies and day trippers snapping coconut palms for the ‘gram, or shuffling onto packed out whale-watching vessels. It is almost impossible to get a seat on the iconic Kandy to Ella rail stretch, and six wheel drives outnumber elephants at Yala National Park. Here’s how to swerve the crowds and find the best off-beat experiences Sri Lanka has to offer.
Wilpattu
Wilpattu National Park is a 45-minute drive from Anuradhapura, the ancient capital of the North Central Province. One of the largest and oldest national parks on the island, it is perfect for travellers who want to observe Sri Lanka’s beautiful and plentiful wildlife away from throngs visiting the more popular national parks in the south. Prepare to see dino-esque monitor lizards, semi-submerged crocs lurking at the water’s edge, grazing warthogs, an abundance of exotic birds, and too many monkeys to feel completely secure in an open top. You might also glimpse leaps of leopards prowling through the undergrowth at first light or elephants bathing in the sandy shallows of one of the many lakes.
Minitahle
Also close to Anuradhapura is Minitahle, a mountain peak where Sri Lankan King Devanampiyatissa first encountered Arahant Mahinda, a Buddhist monk, and son of the Indian Emperor, Ashoka the Great. It was this legendary meeting in 243 BCE which inaugurated the presence of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, and turned Minitahle into this beautiful-beyond-words modern day pilgrimage site. More intrepid adventurers might start their journey at the local town and trek through the forested hills, caves and granite boulders to reach Mihintale Rock Peak. Standing at a little over 300m, the Rock offers panoramas of picturesque countryside, and unobstructed views of the Mihintale Buddha Statue and Mahaseya Dagoba. Head to the dagoba for sunset, and watch the sky turn a palette of pastels to the rythmic chanting of monks.
Pidirangula
Pidirangula is not quite the Lion’s Rock of Sigiriya but has the best view of it in all of Sri Lanka. A volcanic cone-shaped rock formation several kilometres north of its big sister, Pidirangula provides the perfect budget-friendly alternative for those who are more about the hikes, views and vibes. Travel to Pidirangula before sunrise – when it is at its quietest and coolest – and allow at least 30 minutes to reach the top, where you can stand at level with the Lion’s Rock and watch dawn break around it.
In and around Jaffna
The Tamil North is geographically and culturally worlds apart from the southern part of the island. Jaffa, the north’s capital, is more akin to Southern India, with its dry heat and dusty roads, distinctive red and white striped Hindu temples, and cows roaming freely through the streets. Nallur Kandaswamy temple, the gold-encrusted gem of Jaffna, is an absolute must-see. Make sure your visit coincides with puja ritual, and follow a procession of worshippers through the centuries old temple, performing blessings at shrines and paying homage to deities.
Jaffna’s surrounding area is best explored on scooter. Spend a day exploring the peninsula, cruising down oversea roads to the islands off the west coast of Jaffna. When you reach Punkuvutidu, board a boat across to Nainathivu to join pilgrims at the beautiful and ancient Nagadeepa Temple. Back in Nainathivu, head to Kayt’s most northern point, a tiny jetty of multi-coloured wooden fishing boats and board a final ferry to Karainagar, an island of palm trees and white sand beaches. Ride back in time to catch a sunset over 17th century star-shaped Fort Jaffna.
The Knuckles
The Knuckles Mountain Range lies in central Sri Lanka’s hill country in the districts of Kandy and Matale. The peaks and folds of the montane tropical forest meander across the skyline like a clenched fist; a sucker punch of breathtaking views, rugged wilderness trails and magnificent waterfalls. Knuckles is also a biodiversity hotspot, home to a plethora of wildlife, including lizards, sambar deer, wild boar, elephants, loris and bandicoots. It is highly unadvisable – and actually prohibited – to trek in The Knuckles without a guide, but there are many guided day hikes or multi-day trekking adventures which depart from Kandy.
South coast hideouts: Hirikitiya and Tangalle
Full disclosure: describing Hirikitiya as ‘off-beat’ these days is a stretch, but this crescent-moon cove, where jungle meets ocean, has a more intimate and secluded feel than neighbouring towns of Mirissa, Weligama and Bentota. Where there were once little more than a few wooden huts along the palm-clad shoreline, you can now find cafes, remote working hubs and plenty of rookie boarders trying out the gentle waves. A 30-minte drive east is Tangalle, a peaceful paradise with 7km stretch of white sand beach, which becomes a stomping ground for turtle hatchlings come sundown.
Essentials
Getting there and around
Whilst this piece focuses on off-beat locations, Sri Lanka is an island of well-accommodated tourist hubs with an efficient public transport system including public buses which can be used to access most of the island, not to mention some of the most beautiful train journeys in South Asia, if not the world. It’s advisable to reserve a seat on the train if you can, as the most popular routes can get very busy during peak season.
When to go
Sri Lanka is a country of microclimates with back to back monsoons on different sides of the island. The north and the east coast see rain October to January and the drier weather May through September, whilst the west and south coast and the hill country has its monsoon May to September, and is dry and sunny from December through until March.
Where to stay
There is accommodation to suit all budgets in Sri Lanka, from luxurious hotel resorts to hostels for under £8 per night. An increasing number of families are now offering ‘homestays’ for travellers, an authentic and budget-friendly option which also involves delicious home-cooked food and local travel expertise.